This is a fairly new area with a ton of challenging routes and many three-star rated climbs. The rock is a very fine grained granite and has all types of fun features from roofs, books, cracks, edges, and flakes. The walls here are mostly on the scenic but remote south and east facing slopes of Devil's Head Mountain. The hilly and wooded surrounds are incredibly beautiful which is all part of the climbing experience here. Also part of the experience is very difficult climbs on both newer sport routes and old trad climbs. Almost all of the climbs are 5.10+ so this is not exactly a novice area. Enjoy the sunny south facing slopes and the cooler temperatures on top of finer grained granite which isn't so tough on the hands.
Details
Location
30 minutes southwest of Denver
Rock Type:
Fine granite
Hazards:
Afternoon thunderstorms, cool temperatures
Routes:
Years
Season:
Late spring to fall
Map + Directions
Basic Directions
From Denver take HWY 85 south to Sedalia then head west on HWY 67 for about 10 miles. At the ranger station take FR 300 South (Ramparts Range Road) for approximately 9 miles to the turn off for Devil's Head campground and the Fire Tower. Once at the parking lot, head up the tourist trail toward the Fire Tower about 1.5 miles. At a saddle well below the Fire Tower the trail forks right (to the tower) and left to the Zinn Overlook. Head for the Zinn Overlook along a well defined trail. At the overlook, trails will fork directly toward the different crags.
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Chaffee County Central Colorado
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Colorado Springs Central Colorado
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Grand Lake Rocky Mountain National Park
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Red River Northern New Mexico
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Farmington Northwestern New Mexico
Farmington
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South Fork Southwestern Colorado
South Fork
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